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Fabric represents up to 70% of the total product cost and is therefore the single most important component in garment manufacture. It is essential to the success of the business that this, the most expensive component is properly controlled. It is not just a matter of having good markers (although of course this is essential) but also to make sure that fabric is utilized to the maximum. The purpose of this system is to save anything from 0.5% to 10% of fabric. The system has been developed over years of experience in many cutting rooms and has been designed to monitor every Inch/Cm/gram of fabric issued. It produces management reports to provide total control. The system can handle both Woven’s and Knitted fabrics.

As a 1st step our system requires the basic style and order information, this information can either be entered or we can import this information by integrating our system with any existing ERP which works on SQL/Oracle/ Fox –Pro

Following is the working procedure of Pro-Cut

  1. Fabric Receipt:
  2. The system starts with the receipt of fabric, on receipt of material we enter all the roll details and produce a minimum of 4 bar codes which are attached to every roll. These bar codes are used to monitor how this particular piece of fabric is used throughout the various processes it follows during manufacture. The bar-codes produced at this point are used for the following processes.

    1. As proof of issue to another department (Mainly cutting room, however some could be sent for samples. – An issue document is produced
    2. The rolls are then scanned into cutting room and issue and receipts are verified by the software
    3. Laying up process cannot be initiated if the receipt verification is not done
    4. The barcodes are then used during the laying up process
  3. Fabric Examination:
  4. We have programmed the 40 point fabric examination procedures into Pro-Cut. Once fabric is received it is examined and the results are entered against that roll and the system will accept or reject the fabric based on score.

    The fabric is also graded by:

    1. Width
    2. Shade
    3. Shrinkage

    So that it can be grouped to maximise its utilisation.

  5. Cut order Planning – A revolutionary approach! :
  6. Pro-Cut starts at the beginning of Cutting Room procedures, and is called “Cut Order Planning” It is the process of establishing the following:-

    1. The best combinations of sizes and colours to produce all the garments in the order minimising the amount of labour required.
    2. The best combination of sizes and colours to produce all the garments in the order to get the best possible fabric utilisation

    This is done automatically in the software! You just have to enter the conditions required for your cutting room,

    1. Quantity per size / colour- This comes from Style and order entry
    2. Marker length or number of bodies required to cut in the lay
    3. Variance allowed by the buyer – Normally between 2 %and 5%
    4. Maximum and optimum ply height ie 120 -150

    The system will produce a Cut Order plan which will optimise fabric utilisation, maximise your cutting room output and produce a list of markers at the best possible ply height and allow the user to plan the remainder using his / her knowledge of end bits to complete the planning process. It also allows the user to try several alternatives by changing the above 4 parameters, each alternative can be saved and the user can chose the most suitable choice. Once completed the Cut order plan can be copied and associated to the other fabrics in the order, ie linings, pocketing, contrasts ect

    Since CAD systems now have the facility to make markers automatically it is also possible to make the markers of the chosen list, establish which marker is most efficient and re-plan the whole order maximising the use of the most efficient markers.

    Once the cut order plan is completed the system will automatically produce the laying up sheets for each marker for all of the fabrics. These will be used as required in the cutting room. They are bar-coded for easy use by laying personnel. More details are described below.

  7. Fabric Requisitions:
  8. After marker making, the marker lengths are entered and fabric requirements are calculated, these include a laying up allowance and an anticipated industrial wastage factor. A comparison between “Costed” and “Marked” is made, showing potential profit or loss before fabric is issued. Management now have the ability to decide in advance what actions are necessary to maximise profit.

  9. Fabric Issue:
  10. It is normally the case that fabric issue is not exactly what is required by the order (due to the various fabric roll lengths. It is not economically viable for the “Raw materials store” to accept small lengths as “Returns to stock” as they stay on the shelves and are eventually sold to a “Jobber” at a very low cost. It is therefore necessary to use the “extra fabric” with the rest of the order. This is automatically proportionally allocated over the whole order maintaining the original ratio ensuring that excess cloth is used to the maximum. It is of course possible to return fabric to stock if necessary.

  11. Binding Requirements:
  12. It is important that garments that require binding in the same fabric have the quantity properly calculated, so that cutting too much does not create waste. The program will calculate binding requirements.

  13. Fabric Lotting:
  14. In many cases the delivery of fabric is not made in one lot, and due to the lack of lead time fabric is accepted in several lots, in many cases the customer demands that each lot is cut separately (and must be cut in the same ratio as the order) this demands that the order quantity is divided amongst the lots and the order quantity is reduced proportionally across all of the sizes, these calculations are performed by the program automatically and the program will choose the best markers to accommodate the quantity that has been delivered. The remaining quantity is recalculated and a new marker plan is produced.

  15. Laying up:
  16. When the user is satisfied with the “Marked consumption” the system will produce “Laying up” sheets. These are lists of the number of plies of each colour of fabric that should be laid onto each marker to complete the requirements of the order. These sheets are bar coded and require the operator to enter details such as: - Number of Plies, Damaged lengths, off cuts, Remnants, Joins, Balance, etc under the appropriate column

    Bar- Codes are attached to every piece of fabric removed from the lay and how they are further used is recorded, they can be used on shorter markers or used for panel replacement, a record of exactly how the roll was used is established.

    There are several types of laying up sheets available:

    1. Normal Markers
    2. Step markers
    3. Markers where splicing is allowed.

    Once the lay is completed the information is recorded through scanning and a complete fabric reconciliation is computed.

  17. Fabric Reconciliation:
  18. This contains the following information: -

    1. Fabric issued
    2. Total laid up
    3. Damaged fabric
    4. End bits
    5. Variance on Manufacturers roll length
    6. Costed consumption
    7. Marked consumption
    8. Achieved consumption
    9. Profit or loss against costed consumption
    10. Dead Stock
  19. Some of the Reports generated:
  20. The following reports are available and can be printed “From and to” where required.

    1. Cutting room profit or loss for the period requested.
    2. Fabric supplier Performance both in delivered quantity and quality
    3. Cutting order summary
    4. Cut order planning
    5. Fabric requisitions
    6. Fabric Issues
    7. Fabric returns to stock
    8. Fabric reconciliation
    9. Cutting daily output
    10. Consolidated Reconciliations- for a specified period

    This system will give you complete control of your fabric, you will be able to reduce your fabric purchases per order and save money from the beginning of the process once the system is running.